It's getting kind of late to cut them back and let them start over, unless you're maybe someplace like Arizona or Texas with long, warm falls.

My opinion is that you basically will just have to live with it, and use appropriate support in the form of stakes, cages, etc.

If it's just that the appearance of the bare bases bothers you, why not plant some basil or some other herb at the base for "filler"?

...I'm just a bit worried that the stems won't support a crop, and that I won't be able to keep the plant in check if it decides to grow six feet high.

Some people let an indeterminate sungold type of tom spill all over the ground -- I have seen some that spread six feet wide. I don't have that luxury of space in sun.

but they will get to 8-10 feet tall by the end of the year. If you let suckers (side shoots) develop (don't prune), you can top the stems at the height you can handle.....

(actually I have a bunch of tomato plants!) and it is growing like crazy, despite the drought. I find it fascinating because the other varieties are responding to the intense heat/dry conditions in various ways. But this kind is actually thriving in it, for some reason.

My question is like the other one: should I prune it a bit? I believe I read somewhere that you should basically just leave the main stem and prune the rest and that if you don't, you won't get much fruit. This plant is also starting to flower but no tomatoes forming as of yet. This is why I am concerned.

because it depends upon whether the blossom clusters on the main stem set fruit or not (if the temps and humidity are not right for a particular variety to pollenate, the flowers will drop - if you prune all suckers, you could end up with an 8 foot plant and just a few tomatoes)

Best way to hedge all bets is to let 2-3 side shoots (suckers) keep going - then you have in a sense 3 - 4 main stems. You have to watch it, though, because each of those 3-4 stems need to be de-suckered - if not, it becomes a jungle!

Or something similar rigged up with stakes and strings, so that it is fully supported and it can't sprawl too much.

Something along these lines (Image from Sunset Magazine website):

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Just stake them, tie them to the stakes and let them go. You can also root some suckers for future plants if those struggle - or carry them along for planting later on to extend the season.

July 1, full sun - and my indeterminate tomatoes are 8 feet tall!

I can find enough straight sturdy branches here to use as the bamboo.

I have always used strips of fabric as ties, but I like the idea of velcro.

Here are some pics of my leggy tomato stalks in their velcro "slings":








FYI, I found the velcro ties in the garden section at Home Depot. One roll has been enough for 5-6 tomatoes in past years. This year, since I'm up to THIRTEEN plants (found another volunteer yesterday!), I just started into a second roll. At about $2.95 each, that's not a huge expense.

So I guess I won't worry too much, unless I have to move them again to get more sun. They are planted right in the bags of soil (drainage facilitated) so I *can* move them if I need to do so.

...on the specific advice of a garden coach I know. I haven't used it on tomatoes before, but it's a wonder for flowers, especially zinnias in my experience.

Most small garden centers sell low-content organic fertilizers. There's one called "Tomato Tone" that works very well, even with other nightshades such as potatoes, peppers, and eggplant. Just don't overdo any one element. Potash will spruce up the in-ground plants by building their resistance to disease. You can just top-dress them and water well. The pellet version distributes itself over a longer period of time and I've found it to be superior. Dried blood is good when nitrogen is needed. A basic 4-4-4 or similar combination is really the best. Avoid double digits. It's better to use lower concentrations more regularly than a high concentration occasionally.

He's a grower and garden coach featured in Sunset magazine this year.......different strokes for different folks.

We get more than we can use every year. The key (as with many things) is everything in moderation. Periodic fertilizer application goes a lot further than one-shot overdose. Also, before you plant next year, try putting some kelp meal, cotton meal, and green sand in the soil when you work it. The roots love that.

HopeHoops. I use a fertiliser with low N-P-K on my indeterminate tomatoes. I use it 2 times a month. Using a regular fertiliser with higher numbers is going to give you leggy plants. Slow and steady wins the race as far as the nightshade family go.

If I have a raised bed and different plants w/different needs, do I put the nitrogen in the vicinity of the tomato plants only?